- Long before Nairobi’s Mlango Kubwa became a crowded residential estate, it was the site of a rare spectacle, a lavish wedding in 1941 that drew not only the city’s elite but also the colonial regiments stationed nearby.
- In his fascinating memoir, Dr. Ashraf Sheikh, an accomplished surgeon and storyteller, recalls how his family’s newly built residence stood behind an ornate, towering gate that intrigued the locals.
- Residents fondly referred to the place as Mlango Kubwa, a Swahili term meaning “the big gate.”
- What began as a symbol of one family’s celebration soon became a geographical landmark and eventually, a familiar name across Kenya’s capital.
Dr. Ashraf Sheikh Narrates His Family’s Adventure into East Africa
Dr. Sheikh shares his great-grandfather’s 1889 migration, charting his course from the lush expanse of Punjab, India, to the shores of Mombasa.
Sheikh Nurdin, then a young entrepreneur, boarded a train in Jhelum bound for the Indian port of Bombay (present-day Mumbai).
From there, he secured passage on a dhow, a medieval-style boat laden with merchants and commercial wares.
Propelled by the Northeastern Monsoon Winds, the Kazkazi, the vessel navigated the high seas, arriving safely at Mombasa’s old port months later.
After clearing immigration and taking a brief rest in Mombasa’s Kibokoni neighborhood, Sheikh Nurdin immediately set to work.
Using his savings, he established an import and export business, strategically leveraging the port of Mombasa to move his goods.
He later capitalized on the construction of the consequential Kenya–Uganda railway (1896–1901) by venturing into charcoal supply.
Nurdin’s tannery business further solidified what would become a formidable family dynasty in Kenyan business circles.
In the 1930s, his son, Fazal Ilahi (Dr. Ashraf’s grandfather), joined him from India to manage the fast-growing enterprise.
Following Nurdin’s death during a pilgrimage to Mecca, Fazal Ilahi and his brother Gul took over their father’s operations, mentored by Nurdin’s loyal assistant, Mauladad.
By 1940, the family business had grown to an unimaginable scale, owning multiple properties across Nairobi and other parts of Kenya.
Fazal Family Grand Wedding
The moving story captures the seamless continuity within the family business, demonstrating the astute Indian tradition of grooming business heirs.
As Fazal Ilahi prepared his eldest son, Bashir (Dr. Ashraf’s uncle), to take the reins, marriage became an essential step in the process.
Ilahi, viewing Bashir as the crown prince and right-hand man of the empire, pulled out all the stops for his first son’s wedding.
“This wedding was the mother of all weddings,” Dr. Ashraf writes. “Almost the entire community and many from the outside, including civic dignitaries, were invited.”
To underscore the magnitude of the event, Dr. Sheikh details the involvement of the British Kenya regimental band, horse-drawn carriages, and more than 100 cars.
This celebration marked the peak of influence and success for the Kenyan-Asian community, a legacy that continues today.
The Mlango Kubwa Project
To commemorate the occasion, Fazal Ilahi ordered the construction of a new family home near Pangani, just four kilometers from the Nairobi Central Business District.
Built in 1941 in honor of Bashir, the property quickly became a landmark in a steadily developing Nairobi.
The residence was fronted by a huge, imposing gate that guarded the home’s privacy, its perimeter fortified by a thick eight-foot kei apple fence.
Inside the gates, a 300-yard driveway led to the house, lined with beautifully tended gardens cared for by Dr. Sheikh’s grandmother, Karam Bibi, and mother, Fazal Noor.
The property instantly became a local talking point. The massive gate led to the area being universally known as Mlango Kubwa (“Big Gate”).
Due to its fame, the landmark served as a crucial reference point and later became a busy bus stop for travelers entering the city.
During the height of the Mau Mau resistance, tough colonial police were stationed there to screen Kenyans arriving from areas like Thika, Kiambu, and Murang’a.
Today, Mlango Kubwa is a crowded residential area adjoining the famous Mathare informal settlement.
Its increasing population and proximity to populous places like Eastleigh have made it an epicenter of violent robbery and serious drug peddling.
The uncontrolled proliferation of structures creates a serious competition for vital resources like water.
Dr. Ashraf Sheikh, an orthopedic surgeon and avid golfer, currently resides in Texas. His rich, captivating memoir, “Kenya: Paradise on Earth,” is available for sale at drashrafsheikh.com.